Skinification: A Game-Changer in Sunscreen Usage

^{This article first appeared on Global Cosmetic Industry}

The pandemic encouraged consumers to reassess and prioritise their health and wellbeing, with the sentiment only amplifying in 2023. As consumers adopt a more holistic approach towards their health, there is a shift to more proactive solutions rather than reactive treatments. This trend has particular implications for sun care, as consumers are starting to see the product as a preventative health measure against not only skin cancer, but also ageing and overall skin health. 

Consumers actively seek protective sun care as their understanding of skin health continues to grow

Ongoing education efforts have successfully changed consumers' views on sun care, as they increasingly use sun protection year-round, rather than just during specific seasons.

US respondents have a clear desire for healthy skin, with the top reasons for purchasing sun protection being “skin care as an important priority” (27%) and “addressing specific skin concerns” (25%)

^{Source: Euromonitor International’s Voice of the Consumer: Beauty Survey (fielded June to July 2023}

Skinification: Revolutionising sun care through skin health motivations and multifunctionality 

Historically, sun care was primarily designed to shield against UV rays and avoid sunburn, but with growing skin health awareness among consumers, demand is rising for products that provide more than just protection, such as improving the overall skin microbiome. Over the past few years, there has been a noticeable rise in the incorporation of skin care benefits into sun protection, also known as “skinification”, revolutionising sun care as a whole. 

Skinification is being driven by the growing demand for multifunctional products, as consumers no longer want to choose between sun protection and skin care; they want both in one easy step. 

Euromonitor International’s Voice of the Consumer: Beauty Survey (fielded June to July 2023) also found a higher number of US respondents searching for multifunctional attributes in sun care in 2022 and 2023 than in 2021 - a trend expected to continue in future.

Skinification: Ingredient-driven narratives help consumers identify and select the most efficacious products by skin concern 

• Hydration: Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerine help keep the skin moisturised and prevent dryness caused by sun exposure.
• Anti-ageing: Sun exposure is one of the leading causes of premature ageing, with sun care players incorporating anti-ageing ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol and tretinoin to combat fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.
• Even skin tone: Ingredients such as niacinamide, glycolic acid, and liquorice extract can help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage, resulting in a more even complexion.
• Antioxidant protection: Antioxidants such as vitamin E and green tea extract can neutralise free radicals generated by UV radiation, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and damage.
• Nourishment: Ingredients such as ceramides, coconut oil and shea butter nourish the skin and help to restore its natural barrier function.

Sun protection adopts beautifying elements and ingredient-specific claims to stay competitive

There has been a surge in skin care and beauty companies launching a variety of products that include SPF protection, such as moisturisers, primers, and lip balms. Among the main contenders challenging traditional sun care are moisturisers and foundations containing SPF, which can serve as substitutes, especially for daily use. For example, Tower 28 SunnyDays Tinted Sunscreen Foundation is a revolutionary product approved by the National Eczema Association, promising to not only enhance complexion but also provide SPF protection gentle enough for sensitive skin. This aligns with Euromonitor International’s Product Claims and Positioning (PCP) system, which has seen rapid growth in sensitive skin claims in US sun protection from 2019 to 2022.

Latest skin care releases increasingly incorporate SPF, such as Eucerin's Immersive Hydration Collection. It features a daily lotion with broad spectrum SPF30 that not only claims to hydrate the skin, but also reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In response, sun care manufacturers are incorporating more “skinified” properties and ingredients with targeted benefits, such as reduction of dark spots and fine lines, pore minimisation, and achieving matte/dewy/glowing skin, through products such as tinted sunscreen. Indeed, the number of sun care products including claims such as skin health or antioxidants has only grown, according to Euromonitor International’s PCP system. On the other hand, the clean beauty movement is also encouraging consumers to search for products without harmful ingredients that can pose risks to human health or the environment, leading to a rise in no paraben claims within sun care.

Rise of skinification presents new avenues for brands to expand their offerings and explore new product categories

Generation Z's beloved skin care brand, Bubble, has entered the sun care space with the launch of two mineral SPF sunscreens; Plus One and Solar Mate. Plus One is a tinted daily sunscreen with SPF40, claiming to improve skin appearance over time by reducing hyperpigmentation, redness and excess oil production, ultimately evening out skin tone and blurring blemishes.

VitaSea unveiled a collection of five sun care products specifically designed for sensitive skin, including multifunctional formats such as sticks and sprays. This range contains essential vitamins E and C to provide antioxidant protection, along with sea kelp, accompanied by claims of calming irritation and inflammation while minimising the effects of sun exposure.

Meanwhile, Minu launched its inaugural product, the Brightening Minerals Broad Spectrum SPF30 Gel-Cream, a dermatologist-designed combination of premium sun protection with high-end skin care benefits. By utilising its exclusive "Mineral Superblend" technology, blending premium minerals with botanical extracts, vitamins, and peptides, the company has formulated a revolutionary skin care essential: an all-in-one daily facial mineral sunscreen, moisturiser, and primer. It claims to protect against UVA, UVB, infrared, pollution, and blue light, while incorporating powerful antioxidants and soothing ingredients such as echinacea, ginger, and vitamins B3, B5, and E to help combat irritation and boost skin health.

Future outlook: Skinification to flourish, run by consumer pursuit of skin health

Due to the progress made in formulation technologies, along with a growing emphasis on personalised solutions, the future of skinification in sun care is full of potential. Consumers’ increased emphasis on health and safety will persist, leading to a deeper scrutiny of beauty ingredients and the products they incorporate into their daily routines. Moving forward, brands will have to be more precise and transparent about their ingredients, formulations, and product claims to build trust and loyalty with consumers.

Furthermore, there is likely to be greater innovation in sun care that focuses on personalised solutions based on skin type, specific skin care concerns, lifestyle habits, protection against environmental stressors, and innovative formats to ensure maximum safety and efficacy. Overall, consumers appreciate sun care that offers both efficient sun protection and caters for their specific preferences and requirements for pleasant yet effective usage. 

Read our articles SPF Moisturisers’ Moment in the Sun: How Skinification is Changing Sun Care in Western Europe to learn more about skinification in other regions, and Skinification and the Influence of TikTok in the US to learn how self-care trends on social media platforms are influencing skin care. For a deep dive into trends in sun care, read our Sun Care in the US report.